Small is beautiful.
In 1973, E. F. Schumacher published a series of essays under that title that challenged Western assumptions on output and characterized centralized organizations as dehumanizing. He cited Buddhist theories and noted if employees felt valued, their products are likely to be higher quality.
Seven Spoons, a new Bangkok restaurant that focuses on organically grown, high quality ingredients from local merchants must have read Schumacher as its delicious simple eats is only matched by its welcoming yet understated, refurbished Chinese shop-house. Value. Simple. Small. Beautiful.
But if you want to enjoy in the pleasure’s of Seven Spoons, make a reservation. “Even though we only opened three weeks ago, we’ve had to turn groups away on Friday and Saturday nights,” said co-manager Regan Suzuki. There are only three tables for two and another for four. The whole concept is reminiscent of Mister Pas, a favored restaurant on Phra Athit Road that just relocated across the river to 88/12 Kanjanaphisek Road. Like Mister Pas, the concept is on Mediterranean dishes made from quality ingredients, preferably local and organic.
Regan and her partner Joke are also purveyors of wraps and meals served via delivery, dubbed Birds in a Row, which was born because several of her NGO ex-pat colleagues were complaining they couldn’t find healthy, organic, simple meals in the City of Angels. And that’s what Seven Spoons is: simple meals you could probably prepare in your home if you had the time and ingredients at your disposal. But you don’t need fancy cooking techniques with quality vegetables and produce, and these prices are pretty unbeatable.
The menu is pretty expansive for such a tiny restaurant, featuring quinoa salad with roasted vegetables (180 baht), feta cheese and pears, candied pecans and goat cheese on rocket with maple dressing (180 baht), grilled squash with peppermint yogurt sauce (120 baht), pumpkin pine nut tortellini with sage butter (220 baht) and risotto balls on fresh plum tomato marinara (240 baht). At least half the dishes are vegan or vegetarian.
The restored Chinese shophouse has a soft wood tone accentuated by dim lighting. It also has a small bar featuring a bartender they pinched from Sri Poom. One oddity is the lack of teas, smoothies or other healthful drinks given the focus of the menu, but we’re sure given time the beverage options will expand.
If we had a quibble, Seven Spoons is not easy to get to if you don’t live or work in the area with all the traffic and one-way streets of Rattanakosin, but of course this is not the fault of the eatery. Do try this new addition to Bangkok’s vibrant restaurant scene and let us know what you think.
Location: 211 Chakkrapatipong Road, near the intersection with Lan Luang Road and close to the Golden Mount temple. Even then, you really need to take a map if you’re driving or taking a taxi with all the one-way streets. At a minimum, consult their website.
Mass transit: MRT Hua Lamphong then take a taxi or tuk-tuk for about 15 minutes.
Hours: 6 pm-midnight Monday to Saturday